Kyōto and Nara: The Ultimate Journey Through Japan's Ancient Capitals

For over 1000 years Kyoto flourished as the capital of Japan. Through virulent civil wars,  political upheaval, fires and earthquakes, the capital rebuilt and persevered. As Japan moved from a feudalistic society to a modern empire, its capital relocated east, and Kyoto was left as the cultural center of Japan. When fire bombs mercilessly rained down from US warplanes during WWII, annihilating Japan’s industrial cities, Kyoto remained untouched by the mercy of one US politician’s adoration and desire to protect it. Now modern and cosmopolitan, it’s Japan’s seventh largest city – with one of the highest tourism rates in the country. Its temples and shrines were collectively added as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994 and continues to be venerated and canonized by those who are lucky enough to visit and call it home.

During the summer of my junior year of High School I spent a month in nearby Shiga Prefecture, as part of the Michigan-Shiga Sister State exchange program. It was during this period that my host family took me to Kyoto and Nara for the first time. I remember being fascinated by the incredible history and beauty of the place, as well as its cultural and architectural marvels that stoked my early interest in Japanese culture to the point of obsession. I have since been back twice, and each time I learned something new and left feeling like I missed something important; a small shrine or temple, or a restaurant or sake brewery; something precious for me to go back to. As I write this article, memories of Japan’s ancient capital – its sites, sounds, smells, and peaceful atmosphere, fill my head, and I long to return.

History

For over 1000 years, the valley between the gentle slopes and forested mountains of central Honshu was the center of ancient Japan. The site, designated in 794 by emperor Kammu to separate the political capital from the powerful Buddhist clergy in Nara, was modeled after the ancient Chinese city of Chang’an, modern day Xi’an, the capital city during China’s Tang dynasty. A rectangular grid of streets was designed to surround an imperial palace, cradled by the Katsura and Kamo rivers, with two large mountains to the north: Hiei-zan, and Atago-yama, to protect it from pernicious spirits; a superstition carried over from China.

Niji Castle (二条城）

This new capital was named Heian-kyō (平安京, “tranquility and peace capital”). During this period, known as the Heian-period, a wave of Buddhist architecture and design permeated the new capital city, and along with art and literature, it continued to flourish. The world’s first novel, The Tale of Genji, was written during this time.

As Japan entered the 12th century the powerful Fujiwara clan began to decline and the Minamoto gained power. The Minamoto shogun, Minamoto Yoritomo, led a successful civil war against the powerful Taira clan, moving the seat of the shogunates power to Kamakura in the east. Although the emperor still reigned from Kyoto, much of Japan’s military and political power rested in Kamakura.

The Kamakura period lasted from 1192-1333. During this time different sects of Buddhism began to take root in Japan, namely Zen, and with it came a boom in temple construction. Aristocratic high culture and art flourished with the creation of the tea ceremony, Nō theatre, flower arranging, and pottery making – traditional arts still regarded as sacred Japanese cultural traditions today.

During the 14th century, apart from the flourishing arts and two unsuccessful Mongol invasions thwarted by strong typhoons – known as the divine wind (kamikaze) – violence and power struggles began to split the nation apart. This culminated in the great Ōnin War (1467–77) where political factions split into small fiefdoms known as daimyō. The warring daimyō left the city fragmented, with widespread destruction and chaos ensuing until the fall of the Ashikaga clan.

Kyoto remained a devastated mess for almost 100 years until the regimes of Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The later is responsible for rebuilding the city and creating vast urban renewal projects. Hideyoshi was also a supporter of the arts and architecture. He created Teramachi Street, in central Kyoto, which became a Buddhist temple quarter.

The Tokugawa shogunate further unified the nation and moved the political center of the country east, to the city of Edo (modern day Tokyo). The imperial court was left to carry out its ceremonial duties as Edo began to grow, not only in population, but in power and influence. The Tokugawa shogunate again briefly returned to Kyoto in the mid 19th century. Shortly after the move a massive fire caused during the Hamaguri rebellion of 1864 burnt down almost 30,000 structures in the city. Inspired by foreign military and economic might the last Tokugawa shogunate moved to modernize Japan. With a wave of reforms came the Meiji Restoration and the beginning of the Meiji Era and the official move of the imperial capital to Tokyo.

It was this move, along with US Secretary of War Henry L Stimson’s romantic admiration towards the city, that spared it from the widespread bombardment that leveled many of Japan’s other cities during WWII. WIth its cultural assets spared from destruction the city became romanticised ever more in the hearts of people around the world.

A Land of Sacred Spaces

Religion in Japan is a curious thing. Most Japanese hold more spiritual beliefs than devout religious: by making occasional offerings to their local temple and visiting shrines when traveling somewhere new, or getting the blessing of a Shinto priest when getting married or starting a new job; people here use these holy places to humble themselves and to pay respect to a higher power.

The native religion of Japan is Shintoism: a collection of very old beliefs and rituals honoring the gods and spirits– Kami. Kami are thought to exist everywhere in nature and by performing rituals and paying respects one can create a balance with nature and the spirit realm. Shinto shrines are scattered throughout Kyoto and Nara and some are as small as book shelves. Most are immersed in natural surroundings, especially forests with old growth trees and small streams.

Temples on the other hand were built when Buddhism was brought to Japan during the 6th century. Temples often contain relics and images of the Buddha and are centers for the community and ceremonies. There are several Buddhist sects in Japan, many brought over from China, the most famous of which is Zen Buddhism, which has become the poster-boy of Japanese religion in the eyes of foreigners.

Shrine and Temple Etiquette

Many of Japan’s sacred buildings are open for visitation. However there are a few courtesies to take to heart when visiting these holy places.

Shrines

You enter a shrine through the Torii gate, staying to one side and avoiding the middle as it’s used by the gods and not humans. When you pass the gates you go to the Chozuya, a small basin filled with purified water. Fill the ladle and wash your left hand, right hand, and finally your mouth by pouring water in your left hand and drinking out of it. Then hold the ladle upright before placing it back on the Chozuya.

Once at the shrine people generally follow a few set steps:

1. Make a slight bow.
2. Toss a coin – it doesn’t have to be much, maybe 1 or 5 yen is sufficient.
3. Grab the rope or cloth and ring the bell a few times, to announce your presence in front of the gods.
4. Bow twice and make sure these are deep, sincere bows.
5. Clap Twice – hand placement matters but nobody really cares how you do it.
6. Pay your respects – I use this time to take a deep breath and sincerely respect my surroundings.
7. One more deep, heartfelt bow.

Once this is done you are free to check out the shrine and purchase souvenirs and meander through the grounds. Some shrines have several smaller shrines scattered throughout, each deserving the same ritual respect.

Temples

The same steps apply when entering a Japanese temple. Once inside the temple things get a little different:

1. Light an incense stick and place it in the urn. These incense sticks (senkou) are usually provided for you at the temple.
2. Make a slight bow toward the altar.
3. Toss a coin
4. If there is a bell, ring it a few times, no more than 3.
5. DO NOT CLAP– put your hands together, bow you head, and enjoy a moment of silence or even a short prayer or act of remembrance for a loved one.
6. Make one last subtle bow towards the altar.

Shrines and temples sell various mementos from your visit. I used to collect beaded bracelets which are generally blessed and used for safety while traveling. They are said to contain the positive energy of the “power-spot” to which it came from. Many shrines and temples are often considered power-spots to Japanese people and many have their favorites.

Shrines offer omikuji – slips of paper with fortunes written on them.These fortunes are categorized from best to worst: dai-kichi (大吉) – great fortune, chuu-kichi​ (中吉) – middle fortune, sho-kichi (小吉) – small fortune, kichi (吉) – a fortune, sue-kichi (末吉) – future fortune, kyo (凶) – curse, and dai-kyo (大凶) – great curse. If you draw a less than ideal fortune you can tie it on a tree, allowing the curse to stay put. A good fortune must be taken home with you.

Getting Around and staying in Kyoto

Buses, trains and subways – Kyoto’s a large modern city with great mass transit. It’s also compact, and aside from its peripheral hills, is fairly flat, making it perfect for biking and walking. Six train lines, two subway lines, a massive bus system, cheap and comfortable taxis, and one of the country’s most beautiful central stations make up the city’s transportation network. Don’t be overwhelmed – it’s easy to figure out once you’re there.

The city is full of fun places to stay, from posh hotels, cute AirB&B’s, to traditional Japanese Ryokans; the options are endless so do your research. The food scene is epic, the nightlife can also be really fun, and the people are friendly and welcoming. Kyoto is an easy place to explore and provides a wonderfully eclectic mix of activities and sites.

Kyoto’s Sights

Sightseeing in Kyoto can be divided by North, South, East, and West regions. Generally, four days is enough to see most of them while getting to experience the rich culture and food scene that makes the city special.

North （北）

Kinkakuji Temple (金閣寺)

It can be said that no other building is as synonymous with Japan and Japanese aesthetics as the zen buddhist temple known as Kinkaku-Ji (金閣寺). Officially its name is Rokuon-ji (鹿苑寺) which means “Deer Garden Temple.” It’s one of 17 registered UNESCO historical landmarks in Kyoto. Its history dates back to 1397 when an existing private villa was purchased from a wealthy statesman by shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. After his death it was converted into a zen temple, just as he requested on his deathbed.

Throughout its history, the complex has come close to total destruction. The first of these incidents occurred during the Ōnin War (1467–1477), when most of the complex was burned down aside from the famous pavilion. In 1955 a young novice monk named Hayashi Yoken, burned down the famous pavilion during a psychotic episode. The monk suffered from mental illness and was released by authorities. The pavilion had to be rebuilt.

The current temple is a reconstruction, dating from 1955, shortly after the original burnt down. It exhibits exuberant architectural styles representing the wealth and sophistication of Kyoto’s  aristocratic circles during the Heian Period. Each floor has a different architectural style with gold leaf exteriors on the second and third floors.

The temple grounds are home to beautiful paths leading through the temple gardens encircling Anmintaku Pond and the golden pavilion. During breaks in the heavy foot traffic I found myself staring off, almost transfixed at the mesmerizing sight of the ornately manicured plants transposed with the famous golden landmark. Continuing through the gardens is the Sekkatei Teahouse which was built during the Edo period.

Kinkaku-ji is located in the northern foothills of the city. To get here you can take buses 101 or 205 from Kyoto station or take the subway to Kitaoji Station and take buses 101, 102, 204 or 205 from there. Taxis are another, more expensive option.

Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺)

龍安寺, Ryōanji, is one of the most visited and photographed temples in Kyoto. Its rock garden, one of the finest examples of kare-sansui (“dry landscape”) in Japan, is what draws visitors here throughout the year. The site served as a villa for a prominent aristocrat during the Heian period, only to be converted into a zen temple in 1450. Today its a sub temple under the 妙心寺 Myōshin-ji temple complex just a short walk to the south. The temple and its parent temples are the centers of Rinzai Zen Buddhism, one of three sects of zen Buddhism in Japan.

The temple and its gardens are registered as one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto, and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple grounds are quite impressive and cover a wide area, including several smaller gardens and a large pond. The main temple served as a mausoleum for several emperors and today is one of the oldest surviving structures in Kyoto. Today the main complex consists of the Hojo, which was the main priests complex, and the Kuri, the former temple kitchen, which is now the main entrance to the temple.

Ryoanji’s famous rock garden certainly attracts the most notoriety. Its design consists of 15 rocks laid out on islands of moss in the middle of a sea of small white stones surrounded by a rectangular plot and low earthen walls. No matter where the viewer stands at least one rock is hidden from view, a feature that attracts many photographic blunders and trespassing violations.

The gardens history, meaning, and designers are enigmas, often described by various legends and tales created throughout the ages. Many tales of its meaning have circulated yet never proven. In the end, it doesn’t matter, as each individual acquires their own interpretation to the symbolism in its rocks and stones and the more you sit and ponder the meaning the more you come to some pertinent conclusions regarding your own meaning and purpose.

The best way to reach the temple is by bus from Kyoto station. Because of the sheer number of visitors and the photogenic nature of the place, it’s best to visit during the early morning hours, as soon as it opens.

Kifune Shrine (貴船)

Legend states that a goddess took a boat from Osaka to the mountains of northern Kyoto. It is said that Kifune Shrine was built upon the spot where she ended her journey. Today the shrine is surrounded by the small town of Kibune (貴船) in a forested valley just north of the city. The famous stone staircase and red lanterns are a sight to behold and one of the most photographed places in the region.

The shrine was built in the early Heian period. It was one of the 16 shrines that Emperor Murakami ordered offerings and prayers (heihaku) brought to the kami as offerings. This made it one of the most sacred temples in the Shinto religion for quite some time. Today it is considered a second-rank imperial shrine.

Being the final resting place for a seafaring goddess, its dedication to the god of water and rain makes sense. The “real” resting place, known as the boat stone – a large pile of rocks – lies further up the mountain at a site called Okunomiya, which was the main hall until it was flooded out in the 11^th century. There is a middle shrine as well, known as Yui no Yashiro. According to traditional shrine protocol you visit the main hall first, then the farthest (Okunomiya), and finally end at the middle shrine (Yui no Yashiro).

Many people visiting the temple enjoy Omikuji (おみくじ) which are fortune telling papers given or bought at Shinto shrines. By placing the sheet of paper in water a fortune appears, but only for a brief moment. Your personalized text depicting your future love life and work-life balance will slip away as soon as the water soaks through – a lesson of impermanence at its best!

For me one of the best parts about the shrine was enjoying the fresh mountain water known as goshinsui (sacred water) which is collected in various stone water basins known as chōzubachi (手水鉢). Here you can fill a ladle full of water to drink and to purify your hands. For centuries people have been using this water for tea ceremonies and ritual purification. Potential healing properties aside, such delicious mountain water was a real treat.

Visiting the temple can be done year round though its recommended to come to partake in one of the major festivals in Japanese culture including the Setsubun Festival in February. The Shrines own Kifune Festival is held on June 1st.

Kamo Shrines – Shimogamo Shrine (下鴨神社) and Kamigamo Shrine (上賀茂神社)

The two Kamo Shrines, Shimogamo Shrine and Kamigamo Shrine, predate Kyoto itself and are two of the most important shrines in Japan. Their antique charm and verdant temple grounds make them a must see for anyone visiting the city. The shrines hold many of Kyoto’s largest festivals and can be quite popular during these times.

South (南）

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)

For seasoned hikers looking to experience a sacred and storied pilgrimage site, look no further than Fushimi Inari Shrine and its thousands of vermilion torii gates. The hike is not strenuous, although it’s quite popular and you’ll certainly be sharing the pathway with other, slower hikers. It’s one of the most sacred shrines in Japan and is dedicated to Inari, the shinto god of rice. Inari is said to use foxes as his messengers, which is why there are so many fox statues and fox symbols on the temple grounds and along the trail.

The grand Romon Gate greets you at the entrance. From there you pass through the main hall to pay respects and make a small offering to the local deities. At the back of the shrine is the famous hiking trail, lined with thousands of torii gates, standing in parallel rows called Senbon Torii (“thousands of torii gates”). Inscripted on the side of the gates are the names of the companies or individuals who donated the costly gates to the temple.

It takes roughly 2-3 hours to hike to the 233m summit of Mt. Inari-san. On the way you can visit several other smaller shrines and miniature torii gates. This being Japan, there are several quality restaurants along the way. The summit and Yotsutsuji trail intersection offers wonderful views of the city.

Toji Temple (東寺, Tōji)

Just a short 15-20 minute walk southwest of Kyoto station is Toji Temple, one of the city’s many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, known for having Japanese tallest wooden pagoda. The temple was originally one of the guardian temples of the original city, being founded in the Heian Period of the 8th century. The temple is one of the centers for the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism and has been, since its founder, Kobo Daishi, was appointed head priest shortly after its establishment.

This was one of the first temples I visited when I first came to Kyoto. I was amazed by the size of its weathered wooden structures and their effortless magnificence. Most of the buildings were rebuilt during the Edo period, after a fire engulfed the old city 1486. The temple compound is made up of several buildings. The main hall, known as Kondo Hall, holds a large wooden Yakushi Buddha statue and several classical Bodhisattvas. The Kodo Hall, rebuilt almost exactly as the original after the 15th century fire, also contains several historic relics worth seeing.

The most photogenic and iconic structure is the five storied pagoda, which was originally erected by Kobo Daishi in 826. It too was rebuilt following the massive fire. The 57m wooden pagoda stands tall amongst Central Kyoto’s largest buildings and can be seen from several vantage points around the city. It has become a popular symbol of Kyoto, often being depicted in postcards and photos.

Tofukuji (東福寺)

With unparalleled views of Kyoto’s lush mountains and urban landscape, Tofukuji temple is a must see. During Autumn the forest that surrounds it turns into a kaleidoscope of vivid colors, creating one of the most photogenic scenes of Japan’s unrivaled natural beauty. Still in use today as the head temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, monks can be seen walking among the visitors year-round.

With so much natural beauty engulfing it you are surprised when your attention gets pulled back towards the beautiful architecture. Some of the structures date back to the early Muromachi Period (1333-1573), making them some of the oldest examples of zen architecture from that era. The 22 meter tall Sanmon Gate dates back to 1425, making it the oldest surviving zen gate in Japan.

The rock gardens surrounding the Hojo, the head priest’s former living quarters, are some of the finest examples of karesansui (枯山水) in the country. When I came to the temple I was immediately lost in its beauty, enchanted by the surroundings, and in love with the temples meditative atmosphere. The sounds of bells and chanting and the smell of incense smoke drifting through the forest was one of the highlights of my time in Kyoto and hours past by so fast that I almost spent an entire day here, completely lost the moment.

Tofukuji is a short, 2 minute train ride from Kyoto station. Get off at Tofukuji station and take the short walk up to the temple.

East (東）

The Higashiyama District (東山)

In the eastern foothills of the city lies the famous historical district known as Higashiyama. With a large tourist presence it can feel a bit overwhelming for those who like to stay off the beaten path but the district contains several of the city’s most important landmarks. The area is filled with small streets with hundreds of small touristy shops and restaurants offering all kinds of traditional items as well as those cheap crafts, priced exorbitantly, that you can easily find at dollar stores in Japan. The architecture on the other hand is really beautiful and harkens back to what the streets of old Kyoto must have looked like.

Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺)

The Pure Water Temple, as it’s name means in Japanese, is one of Kyoto’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and one of the finest examples of Japanese Buddhist architecture in the country. The stunning views of the massive main hall and storied pagoda overlooking the city and its surrounding forests have become a scene that has enchanted visitors for ages.

Its history dates back to 780, when it was built on the site of the Otowa waterfall, known for its pure healing waters. Since then, the temple has become the head of the Kita Hosso sect of Japanese Buddhism which spawned from its parent Hosso sect in 1965.

The Otowa Waterfall still flows at the base of the main hall. Visitors can choose between three streams of water, each with different powers. You can use a long pole to reach out and fill your cup. The water tastes delicious, although I’m not to sure my blessing amounted to anything.

There are several objects of worship contained on the temple grounds including the eleven faced, thousand armed Kannon statue in the main hall. Jishu Shrine is a small shrine located behind the temple’s main hall. It’s dedicated to the god of love and matchmaking. Two stones, roughly 18m apart, are said to be blessed and walking blindfolded between the two is said to bring you true love.

The surrounding area has other temples and monuments so several hours can be spent here. From the main hall you can see the small three-storied Koyasu Pagoda popping out of the forest canopy.

To reach the temple take buses 100 or 206 from Kyoto station.

Kodaiji (高台寺)

Built in 1606 in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s greatest daimyō and political figures, Kodaiji stands as a symbol of Japanese aesthetics. Hideyoshi became known as Japan’s “second unifier” and his legacy lives on in Kodaiji temple. Another important center of Rinzai Zen Buddhism, it is still an active temple today. Beautiful manicured gardens adorn the temple grounds and it’s a wonderful place to sit and romanticise the tranquil surroundings; another fine example of Japanese chic.

Located on the hillside just behind the temple lies Hideyoshi and his wife’s mausoleum. Kodaiji Makie, a traditional lacquerware, adorns the interior, with powdered gold and silver nature designs being the common theme. Two tea houses are located further up the trail. Hideyoshi was said to be a fan of the tea ceremony and employed the company of Japan’s legendary tea master Sen no Rikyu. The path leads back towards the Higashiyama district and passes through a large bamboo grove. After exiting the temple you can fine Entokuin Temple, which also has some impressive gardens surrounding it.

Chionin Temple (知恩院)

Further north from Kodaiji is the head temple of the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism known as Choinin Temple. Its massive Sanmon Gate greets visitors who will be struck by its sheer size. It’s the largest wooden gate in Japan and dates back to the early 17th century. Going past the gate you walk up a large stairway towards the main temple.

As you enter the temple grounds, you reach a large open space with stone paths leading to the temple’s main buildings: Miedo Hall and Amidado Hall which houses the temple’s principal objects of worship: a statue of the priest Honen, who founded the Jodo sect, and the statue of Amida Buddha, the most important Buddha in Jodo Buddhism. Further up you reach the oldest building on the temple grounds, Seishido Hall and the Great Bell which was once the largest in the world. Two gardens: Hojo Garden and Yuzen Garden are also worth strolling through.

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)

Founded sometime around the 7th century, Yasaka Shrine has become one of the most famous shrines in Japan. Outside the main shrine hangs hundreds of lanterns, each illuminated at night, that are, in my opinion, one of the prettiest sights in Kyoto.

The shrine is most famous for hosting the Gion Matsuri, which is probably the most famous festivals in Japan. Held in July, the festival dates back to over a millennia and attracts thousands of people of all ages who come sporting their traditional summer kimono (yukata). Excitement and celebration abound as processions of colorfully decorated floats march through the shrine. If planning a trip to Kyoto during this time it’s a must see.

Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺)

In the Eastern mountains of Kyoto stands the small, but venerated temple known as Ginkakuji – The Silver Pavilion. The temple belongs to the Buddhist Shokoku School of the Rinzai Zen sect. It was built in the Muromachi Period as a retirement villa for the powerful Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (1436-1490). It became the center for the Higashiyama Culture, which encouraged the development and spread of the arts like poetry, architecture, Noh theater, tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and garden design.

In my opinion few places capture the simple beauty of Japanese landscape architecture better. No matter which vantage point you look your eyes are sure to catch a glimpse of something so aesthetically pure it fills your heart with joy. From the surrounding forest, the 2m silver cone, the small birds flying above you, to the simple brown pavilion, everything around you is in perfect harmony with nature.

Luckily this temple is not as popular as its cousin Kinkaku-ji and sometimes you can find yourself relatively alone. Contrary to its name it was never silver and the history of its assigned name is vague. The complex consists of two main buildings: Hondo (main hall) and the Togudo which is said to be the oldest surviving example of Shoin architecture – the architectural style used in most tatami rooms today. Surrounding the temple buildings are the manicured sand (Sea of Silver Sand) and moss gardens.

To reach the temple take buses 5, 17 or 100 from Kyoto Station.

Philosopher’s Path (哲学の道)

One of the city’s primary cherry blossom viewing zones is known as the Philosophers Path. Although the blossoms only occur in spring, it’s a wonderful place to stroll around and take in the scenery as water flows down the small canal running alongside it, creating a calming meditative effect for those who take the stroll. The canal was part of the Lake Biwa canal, dug during the Meiji restoration to power Japan’s first hydroelectric power plant and boost the slow economy of the region.

The path is named after Nishida Kitaro, a famous Japanese philosopher who would often practice walking meditation here on his way to Kyoto University. There are several restaurants and small temples along the path which are fun to explore.

Nanzenji Temple (南禅寺)

At the base of the forested Higashiyama mountains lies the vast temple grounds of Nanzenji Temple. The buildings, built in the 13th century, were once the villas of emperor Kameyama who retired here. After his death the villa was converted into a zen temple. In the chaos of the civil wars of the late Muromachi Period all the original buildings were destroyed. The temple was rebuilt following the civil war in the 16th and 17th centuries. Just outside the temple is a famous aqueduct; an exposed segment from the large Lake Biwa aqueduct constructed during the Meiji period to bring water from Lake Biwa to the city.

Sanjusangendo (三十三間堂)

A short 20 minute walk east of Kyoto station is the large Buddhist temple-hall Sanjusangendo, also known as Rengeo-in. It’s famous for the 1001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. It’s also the longest wooden structure in Japan, measuring 120m. It’s name means 33 intervals, which pertains to the number of intervals between the building’s support columns. It was built in 1164 and rebuilt a century later following a massive fire.

Gion (祇園)

Kyoto’s famous for Geisha – woman who entertain through traditional performing arts. The district of Gion is widely known for preserving the tradition and woman, with white painted faces and colorful kimonos can be seen walking down its narrow streets. The district is full of tea houses, restaurants, and small bars known as izakaya. It’s the perfect late night hang out spot for those waiting to get a late night meal before heading out for some nightlife. For locals and travelers with money to spare you can dine in one of the areas finest establishments while being entertained by geiko (Kyoto dialect for geisha) and maiko (geiko apprentices).

Kenninji (建仁寺)

Just south of the Gion district is one of the five great temples of Zen Buddhism, Kenninji is one of the centers of the Rinzai Sect of Japanese Buddhism. The temple is considered to be the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, having been constructed in 1202, well before any of the other surviving temples in the city. The beautiful temple grounds are home to exquisite dragon murals painted on the interior walls and ceilings of the halls. Rock and moss gardens cover the outside landscape.

Kawadoko at Kamogawa River

The Kamogawa River, which flows through central Kyoto, is home to numerous restaurants and bars where locals and visitors like to come and enjoy the evening. Kawadoko, or Kawayuka as it’s sometimes known, is the traditional pastime of dining on platforms overlooking the river. During the hot summer months restaurants build these temporary wooden decks over the river’s west bank canal. These can be the finest places to enjoy a traditional Kaiseki ryori (会席料理) meal, which consists of a set, seasonal menu full of small dishes.

West (西）

Arashiyama (嵐山) District

The popular tourist district in western Kyoto is a great place to come to escape the crowded city and immerse yourself in small-town charm. During the Heian Period (794-1185) Japanese nobles would enjoy the area, often coming to take part in cherry blossom viewing and walks along the shores of the river. Today not much has changed and the area still beckons people to visit.

The most famous landmark is Togetsukyo Bridge. Many shops and restaurants line the shores of the river surrounding it, and this is where most people seem to congregate. As you head north of the bridge area everything becomes less touristy and more open. Small boats can be rented during the cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons. This can be one of the most romantic things to do in the city. Many people choose to hike around the famous bamboo groves here which are stunningly beautiful. As the wind penetrates the bamboo forest it knocks the thick stalks together, creating hypnotic percussive sounds that echo through the forest.

Tenryuji Temple (天龍寺)

There are plenty of temples worth seeing in the Arashiyama district but none compare to the impressive Tenryuji temple. It’s one of Kyoto’s many UNESCO World Heritage Sites as well as one of the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto. Its history dates back to the early Muromachi Period (1338-1573).

Kyoto’s Food Scene and Local Cuisine

In my four years of living in Japan, I never once had a bad meal. Gas station sandwiches, street-side carts, family restaurants; whatever I ate it was always amazing. Kyoto is no exception to this peculiarity and is considered to be one of the top spots for foodies and fine dining connoisseurs in the entire country.

Like many capitals and former capitals, the city has, throughout its existence, attracted a diverse range of visitors and inhabitants. Recently, as food scenes globally are taking off and venturing into new territory, Kyoto’s chefs and restaurateurs are following this trend, and taking their own local cuisine to new heights. For the highest concentration of fine and modern dining, the districts of Gion and Pontocho are probably the best places. The neighborhood around Kyoto station also has some amazing options as well.

Of course Japan’s beloved, easily accessible and always delicious fast food, known as “B grade cooking” (B級料理) can be found anywhere. Japan has a party culture, and late night appetites deserve a special type of meal. In the surrounding Kansai region of Japan these specialties came of age and spread throughout the country, becoming instant classics. Dishes like Okonomiyaki – a Japanese cabbage pancake with a sweet and savory sauce, Yaki-soba – stir fried noodles with vegetables and meat, and my favorite, takoyaki – fried dough balls stuffed with octopus – are staples for the late night crowds.

Imperial tastes are hard to please and the food scene that developed around catering to these royal clientele has developed into something breathtakingly exquisite. Luckily this culinary experience is available in several of Kyoto’s most prized restaurants. Most of these high-end establishments specialize in kaiseki ryori (会席料理) – traditional multi-course cuisine for the city’s haut monde. Local ingredients, including the wide range of seasonal mountain herbs and vegetables, known as sansai (山菜), are used in perfect harmony. Cooked in vegetable and fish stocks (dashi), they create a complex, yet simple range of tastes that is as traditional as it gets. Monastic meals served to monks and temple guests – known as shojin ryori (精進料理) – are vegan meals that should not be missed, no matter how carnivorous your diet is.

Home cooking is an indispensable part of Japan’s food scene. Every family has their own recipes, passed down for generations, usually with humble origins. Luckily for visitors there are many places that serve these home-style meals. In Kyoto these meals are known as Obanzai Ryori (おばんざい料理). Restaurants specializing in these dishes take pride in their recipes and ingredients and sometimes chefs eager to practice their foreign language skills will come enthusiastically describe the entire meal in depth to their inquisitive customers.

Nishiki Market (錦市場)

Yatsuhashi – my favorite Japanese confectionary

Every major city in Japan has its own popular, go-to-for-everything market where locals and visitors come to mingle and savor food and ingredients sold by the intensely proud, intensely competitive local food merchants. Kyoto’s Nishiki market, located just a short walk from Shijo Station, is a one-stop-shop for any local speciality you want. It’s clamorous entrances and brightly lit exterior makes it easy to find. Since the early 14th century, it’s been such a fixture for chefs and foodies, that it has become known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” a moniker that’s stuck around and earned it a reputation as having the highest concentration of local food experts around. Make sure to come hungry and to try samples as they will most certainly be passed your way.

Sake (日本酒）

Japan’s national alcoholic drink is going through a renaissance lately. Nihon-shu, or sake as it’s known in the west, has its roots going well before written records. It’s a simple fermented beverage made from rice, water, and kōji mold (麹, Aspergillus oryzae). For centuries the government controlled its production until shrines and temples began brewing it, which even today makes sake brewing a very serious and sacred art.

In Kyoto there’s no other district tied to sake brewing more than Fushimi. Located just 15 minutes south of downtown, near Chushojima Station, the old wooden buildings and tree-lined canals are easy to spot, and along with beautiful smell of fermenting rice, pinpoint your location. Fushimi is famous for its underground spring water, and the waters flowing under its streets is considered to be some of the purest in Japan. There are many breweries here that offer tours and tastings to the public as well as several river cruises that can be quite enjoyable.

Downtown Kyoto has a large concentration of sake bars specializing in nihon-shu and little else. As sake’s popularity is starting to boom again many new businesses are opening up. Places like Kyoto Sake Garden are excellent for tastings and learning about the beverage from experienced sake drinkers.

Nara 奈良

Just a short train ride south from Kyoto is Japan’s oldest capital, Nara. The town is small and most sites are located a short distance from the main train station. The town itself is fun to explore as it’s full of historic charm and hidden gems. The food scene is traditional, regional, and like anywhere in Japan, always incredibly well prepared. My favorite local specialty was Kakinohazushi – a lightly pickled salmon or mackerel wrapped in a persimmon leaf, which is said to preserve the fish by its tannins. Regardless of the effectiveness of this method, this Edo-era specialty became a quick favorite of mine.

History

Nara has a long history of settlement going back to the Jomon period. Hunter gatherers resided in the foothills and fertile river banks near the present day city. As contact with neighboring China and Korea increased, it fostered the introduction of many cultural elements such as Buddhism and buddhist inspired art and architecture. The city became a central place for the religion to spread and many temples were erected. During the Kofun era (300-710) nobility was ceremoniously buried in keyhole shaped burial plots which can still be seen today.

Nara became Japan’s official capital in 708 AD by Empress Genmei, the 43rd monarch of Japan. During this period the city was known as Heijō-kyō. The city layout was inspired by the Chinese city of Xi’an, spread out in a grid layout with the imperial palace to the north.

Shortly after becoming the capital, an outbreak of smallpox and war broke out. As a way of appeasing the gods, Emperor Shomu built Todaiji Temple and the world’s largest bronze Buddha, which still stands today after several renovations throughout the ages.

Nara’s status as the capital of Japan lasted until 784 AD when the imperial palace and court moved to nearby Kyoto. As the city lost its imperial status it became relegated to the background of much of the violence and destruction that accompanied the Muromachi (1333-1573) and Sengoku (1467-1603) periods.

As Japan modernized through the Meiji restoration, Nara was only a small town, with little industry or economic output. This spared it from destruction during the American and Allied bomber raids of WWII, preserving its buildings and monuments. After the war, Japan’s economy boomed, spurred by American investment and global tourism. With Nara’s preserved temples and artifacts it became a tourist destination and a religious pilgrimage site, attracting thousands of visitors a year. Nara’s historic monuments are registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara.”

“Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara”

Nara has plenty of UNESCO World Heritage Sites that are also considered priceless national treasures. These temples, palaces, shrines, and forests make up the bulk of things to see in this small but historically significant town.

Todaiji Temple (東大寺)

Todaiji is one of the most strikingly beautiful places I’ve ever been to. The Great Eastern Temple, as its name means in Japanese, was built in 752, becoming not just an influential center for Buddhism, but a powerful political influence. As a response to this unwanted political weight, the capital was moved to Nagaoka and later to Kyoto, in order to distance the imperial government from the temple’s grasp.

The temple grounds are vast and full of buildings and landmarks worth checking out and learning about. As you enter the complex the first thing that greets you are the many tame deer in Nara Park. The deer have been domesticated throughout the ages and come up to people for special crackers sold on site. They are adorable and extremely popular with children and families.

Towering over the park entrance stands the dominating Nandaimon Gate, which is the main gate to the temple. On both sides stand two large statues representing the Nio Guardian Kings who fiercely stare you down as you enter. The gate, along with the statues, are national treasures, and some of the most famous wooden monuments in Japan.

Todaiji’s central attraction is its main hall, known as the Daibutsuden or “big buddha hall.” The present building is a reconstruction of the original, which was completed in 1692. It’s only two thirds the size of the original, yet is still the largest wooden building in the world. It’s not until you’re standing next to the hall until you fully understand the sheer size of this wonderful building.

Inside there are several important relics which are considered Japanese national treasures. The most prominent is the Grand Buddha or “Daibutsu.” It’s said to be one of the largest bronze Buddhas in the world and stands at 15m tall. The seated Buddha is a representation of Vairocana, a celestial Buddha revered in Zen Buddhism. Along with several smaller Buddhas is a pillar with a hole at its base, known as the Buddha’s nostril. Children can be seen squeezing through this opening which, according to superstition, will grant enlightenment in their next life. Adults should be wary as I’ve heard many stories of people getting stuck.

Nigatsudo Hall

Just behind the main hall you can find a quiet street flanked by stone walls and old residences. This leads the way to the Nigatsudo Hall. The hall offers spectacular views of the temple grounds and Nara below. Its surrounded by a small cemetery and beautiful forest and gardens. During autumn it’s a fine place to view the bright autumn hughes overlaid with the historic architecture.

The current hall was built in 1669, following the destruction of the original Todaiji complex during the violent civil war. Two kannons are displayed inside the hall, although they are considered Hibutsu (秘仏) – “secret Buddhas” – and off limits to the public. The hall and its kannons are prized national treasures. Annually in March Omizutori ceremonies are held. The festival ushers in the spring and is said to cleanse people’s sins. The most dramatic aspect of the festival is the waving of torches by monks. Hot embers rain down on the spectators below in a histrionic display of light.

Kasuga Shrine (春日大社)

Located to the East of Nara park is the grand Kasuga shrine, dedicated to the deity responsible for protecting the city. The shrine is as old as the town itself and carries a rich history and cultural significance. The many buildings and smaller shrines have a characteristic architectural style, utilizing low lying sloping roofs.

Along with its architecture, the shrine is famous for its lanterns, donated by worshipers throughout the years. The hanging lanterns are lit twice a year during the Lantern Festivals in February and in August. These festivals draw huge crowds as the lantern light illuminates the red shrines and surrounding trees for a majestic display of color.

There are several smaller shrines located around the premises as well as a botanical garden. The most intriguing spot is a primeval forest, consisting of large old growth trees. This area unfortunately is closed off to the public.

Kofukuji Temple (興福寺)

During the height of the Nara and Heian Periods the powerful Fujiwara clan used this spot as their family temple, erecting large halls and pagodas throughout the far-reaching complex. The original temple was built around the same time Nara became Japan’s capital in 710. Over 150 buildings were built during this period. Throughout Japan’s civil wars and the subsequent fires, many of the temples buildings had to be rebuilt and some were lost in the flames forever.

As you enter the complex several large structures stand out. There are two pagodas, one of which is Japan’s second tallest, towering 50m above you. The pagoda is a symbolic landmark of Nara and the current building dates back to 1426.

The main temple hall, known as the Central Golden Hall, was only recently rebuilt in 2018. Next to it stands the Eastern Golden Hall which houses a treasured Yakushi Buddha statue as well as many other sacred relics. The Northern and Southern Octagonal Halls date back to the 10th century or early although the current structures were rebuilt in the 13th and 18th centuries.

Although many of the temples and halls are closed off to the public, the National Treasure Museum is a great place to see the remaining historic relics which survived through the fires and wars. Many of the most celebrated statues and Buddhist art pieces in Japan are kept here and it’s well worth the visit.

Tōshōdai-ji temple (唐招提寺)

Toshodaiji’s name in Japanese translates to “temple of the one invited from Tang China.” This is in reference to one of the most important figures in Japanese Buddhism, a man named Ganjin (鑒真). Ganjin was a Chinese monk who was invited by the emperor to improve Japanese Buddhist practices. Ganjin established Toshodai-ji in 759 when he was already old and frail. He continued to instruct monks and aristocrats in Buddhist teachings until his death a few years later.

Ganjin’s legacy lives on and is preserved in the temple. His grave can be visited amongst other artifacts from his time. Probably the most famous structure is the temple’s lecture hall (kodo). Originally an administrative building in Heiji palace, it was moved here after the palace lost its significance and today its only surviving structure. Other significant buildings include the main hall (kondo) and Miedo.

Horyuji Temple (法隆寺)

Out of all the temples I’ve missed while living in Japan, this one deserves a future visit. The temple is home to the oldest wooden building in the world and is one of the oldest temples in the country. It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, due to its historic significance and preserved architecture. It was founded in 607 by Prince Shotoku, who is responsible for Buddhism’s spread throughout the country.

Yakushiji Temple (薬師寺)

I visited Yakushiji (薬師寺) during my first trip to Nara back in 2002. I remember it being quite impressive, with a symmetrical layout and a lot of open space. It’s one of the oldest temples in Japan, having been built in the 7th century by Emperor Tenmu. Supposedly he ordered its construction to promote his sick wife’s recovery. Most of the main buildings had to be rebuilt following several fires. The East Pagoda, however, still stands as it has since 730 AD.

Heijo Palace (平城宮)

During the Nara Period (710-794) the town served as the capital of Japan and was known as Heijo-kyo. The imperial palace rested on a site that was over a square kilometer. All the former structures were lost during the countless civil wars that plagued the country throughout its history. In recent years three of the palaces halls have been reconstructed. The palace site is included as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Nara.

The palace is a short train or bus ride just East of central Nara.

Naramachi (奈良町)

Nara’s former business district during the Edo period is now known as Naramachi, or Nara town. The buildings are long, narrow structures known as machiya, which were tradesman homes with a shop in the front and house in the back. Many of these old buildings have been preserved and now serve as shops, boutiques, and museums catering to tourists.

Naramachi exists on the former grounds of the original Gangō-ji Temple. The temple is only a small fraction of its original size but is still a fun place to visit. The museums here are worth visiting as well as many of the shops. This is a wonderful place to see mochi – Japanese pounded rice cake – being made from scratch.

Kasugayama Primeval Forest (春日山原始林)

It’s a shame I never hiked the Kasugayama Primeval Forest when I’ve visited Nara. Many people, especially local friends of mine, claim it’s the best thing to experience in the town. Unlike most forests in Japan that were stripped bare during the countries massive period of growth during the Meiji restoration, Kasugayama was off limits, closed off to the public for over 1000 years. Today, open to the public but preserved by the Japanese government, it can be hiked in a few hours. Massive old growth trees and hundreds of species of plants inhabit this forest, inspiring nature lovers, artists, poets, and dreamers of all ages; the best place to embody the concept of “forest bathing” 森林浴.