The Ultimate Day in Buenos Aires: Part 1  – wayfarersoliloquy

If you had 24 hours in the 15th largest city in the world, what would you do? Today I’m setting off to discover if an ultimate day is even possible in Buenos Aires. For a city so massive, with hundreds of world-famous museums, restaurants, bookstores, and cafes, not to mention the worlds of Tango, Milonga, and Rock Nacional—all contained within 48 distinct neighborhoods or barrios; it’s a task for the delusional.  

With a late start to the morning, I got myself a comfortable seat on the #41 city bus. A rare treat in such a crowded city. Sunshine and pleasant 70 degree temperatures greet me. I set off to spend the day in one of the world’s great cities. To begin my morning journey, I start in its famous green space. 

Bosques de Palermo 

Situated within the trendy Palermo neighborhood, Bosques de Palermo (Forests of Palermo), are where locals from all around the city come to enjoy endless green spaces and fun activities. I start the day at Buenos Aires’ botanical garden known as Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays. Here, I walk among the towering flora, which includes everything from Yerba Mate, flowering Ceiba, and over 5000 other native and introduced species. 

After my walk through the botanical garden, I circle around to the Ecoparque, a former zoo converted into an open air animal rehabilitation and education center. Within its compounds, capybaras, peacocks, flamingos, and other large animals roam freely. I walk through the park and spend extra time next to the camel enclosure. This unnaturally large camel is a rescue. The groundskeepers eagerly give lessons on conservation and animal care to excited children while the giant camel looks at its fans blankly and chews its meal. 

The Urban Parks in the World

Next I head north on Avenida Sarmiento to check out the huge Tres de Febrero park. Within this open green space encircled by Avenida Infanta Isabel, is a pond where you can rent paddle boats, which many locals do—while enjoying a discrete Fernet and coke on board, of course. The pond surrounds a beautiful rose garden known as Paseo El Rosedal. After walking through the manicured roses and sipping on yerba mate in the grass with White Eyed Parakeets circling overhead, I walk to the southern end of the park to feast on choripán, the traditional chorizo sandwiches of Argentina. Here in the park, several vendors sell them steaming hot and dripping with homemade chimichurri. 

From the choripán stands of Tres de Febrero Park, it’s only a short walk to the Japanese Gardens. I stroll through beautiful bonsais, cherry blossoms, and Japanese architecture, taking in the tranquil late morning air. The Argentine Japanese Cultural Foundation created the gardens in partnership with the city of Buenos Aires. The gardens are one of the city’s most popular cultural landmarks. 

Recoleta 

Perfume, fresh paint, and the warm odor of pastries mixes with the smell of stale urine. Just across the highway from Gucci shops and fine wine stores lies one of the city’s most notorious slums, Villa 31 or Barrio Padre Mugica. The juxtaposition between rich and poor in this area is extreme. 

I enter the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, one of South America’s most renowned museums of fine art. I walk through halls adorned with priceless national art pieces and cultural treasures. Inaugurated in its current location in 1933, it remains a fixture of the city’s cultural landmarks, remaining free for admission to the public. 

After 30 minutes in the museum I run across the street to the Floralis genérica, a large animatronic metal flower sculpture. It’s already over 70° F and I’m sweating. I walk around the structure and admire it from different angles. The Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano built it in 2002 as a gift to the city. Every night, the metal flower petals close and open again once morning comes. 

The Cemetery of Your Dreams

Aside from incredible architecture, museums, and high end shopping, Recoleta is renowned for its cemetery. I walk up the hill of Plazoleta Juan XXIII, home to Recoleta’s popular weekend market. Recoleta’s cemetery is a sight to behold. Within its walls are the ornate tombs and sarcophaguses of influential families, including the country’s worshiped celebrity and politician, Eva Perón. I walk through the city within a city, struck by the artistic masterpieces built within it. 

Across the street is the charming cafe La Panera Rosa and a sculpture of the god Atlas holding the branch of a historic, 200-year-old giant ficus tree. Recoleta is where the city’s wealthy live, work, and play, with classic cafes and up-scale restaurants. I walk along Avenida Alvear. Here the grandeur of Buenos Aires’ Beaux arts and Art nouveau architecture stands on full display. 

Retiro 

Lunch stretches late into the afternoon in Buenos Aires and the late lunch crowds of busy people crowd in front of kioskos and mini bookstores. I cross the busy Avenida 9 de Julio, the city’s main north to south artery, and enter the neighborhood of Retiro. 

Retiro has a reputation for being dangerous along its northern limits near the Retiro train station, especially at night. With this in mind, I make a few laps around the famous landmarks Monument to the Fallen in Malvinas, a Falklands (Malvinas) island war monument, and the famous Torre Monumental, a gift from the British to celebrate Argentina’s independence. On the slope of the park’s green spaces, families and friends sit, picnic, and pass Yerba Mate. 

The center of Buenos Aires is congested, to say the least. No section is as hectic as Avenida Florida. Shops and beautiful buildings fill the busy corridor along with black market money changers yelling “Cambio” to tourists and locals who need to load up on the precious “blue dollars.” Continuing through the crowds, I get to the famous and striking Galerías Pacifico. This monumental indoor mall was built in 1889. I quickly enter to check out the beautiful mural on its ceiling. 

San Nicolás

Galerías Pacifico stands in front of the famous Avenida Cordoba, one of the most famous streets for performing arts. Major theaters, minor theaters, and underground performances take place along this avenue, including plenty of street performances. I walk down the avenue across Avenida 9 de Julio and check out the famous Teatro Colón, the country’s most famous performing arts center. 

I stubbornly continue down to the Plaza del Mayo and visit the presidential palace, Casa Rosada, where Eva Parón gave her famous speech—no, Ché Guiverra was most likely not in attendance. The Plaza del Mayo is considered the center of the city, a space where pro and anti government demonstrators rally, street food vendors convene, and historical figures clash. Bullet holes cover the walls of the Ministry of Economics, relics of a military air attack against the president Juan Perón and his cabinet. The portentous 1955 event shocked the world and the nation and resulted in over 300 civilian deaths.

Puerto Madero and Back to San Nicolás

Before continuing my walk through history, I decide I need a beer. It’s now late afternoon and I’m hot and tired—I’ve already walked over 20,000 steps. I head over to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires’ gentrified historic harbor. I grab a seat at Temple Craft Brewery and order a pint of stout and stare out over the Puente de la Mujer bridge and the towering high-rises.

After satisfying my thirst, I continue up Avenida de Mayo, past the famous landmark Palacio Barolo, once Buenos Aires’ tallest building. I continue to the towering Neo-Classical government building Congreso de la Nación. 

I’m now tired and in need of a rest. Up Montevideo street I get to Avenida Corrientes and pop into the famous Gato Negro, one of the city’s most adored “Bares Notables,” or historic cafes. Inside the 1927 cafe I take a seat next to spice racks and jars of tea. The aesthetic is straight out of the jazz age. I order a coffee, sandwich, and alfajor, chug my water, and rest up. 

Can you see Buenos Aires in just one day? Exhausted, I confidently say no. I was on foot for most of the trip and I barely saw a small portion of what the city offers. Next, I will take on the city south of Avenida de Mayo, a region famous for its colorful buildings, cafes, museums, smokey parrillas, and one of the rowdiest stadiums in the world—La Bombanera! 

For visitors lacking in time, I must recommend Buenos Aires Bus for a convenient day of sight-seeing.